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EATING OUT

The George and Dragon, Thurton

Last updated: 03/01/2009 07:00:00

The George and Dragon, Thurton. Photo: Nick Butcher.
The George and Dragon, Thurton. Photo: Nick Butcher.
It is a village pub with more than 400 years of history, but trade now is very different for pubs like the George and Dragon in Thurton. Once it opened at 6am in time for workers at the forge to have a drink before they started work at 7am, and drovers would stop there with their cattle and sheep between Norwich market and Haddiscoe marshes. Now the challenge is attracting custom to a village pub when drink-driving is no longer acceptable.

Like many pubs, food is an important source of trade, but unlike some rural establishments, it has stopped short of being a restaurant in all but name and remains a proper pub where drinkers are welcome.

It re-opened last year after a major refurbishment, having been taken over by the owners of the Railway in Wymondham. A year on it has new managers, which the website describes as “the perfect opportunity to steer the George in the direction it should always have gone but sadly failed to achieve”.

It looks much the same as it did a few months ago - still a traditional pub, though with fresher décor than many. One side of the bar is mostly for eating and the other side for drinking, but there is no rigid split between the two.

There are several real ales, which on our visit included Canary from Lowestoft's Green Jack brewery, and another guest beer.

There are new menus, of similar style to the previous ones but with some new touches like takeaway home-made pizzas, and largely the same as at the Railway. Overall the food seemed slightly better than our previous visit under the old management. This is the sort of place where you order and pay at the bar, and the food arrives efficiently.

A starter of deep-fried whitebait was lifted to another level by the pot of home-made tartare sauce. While the ready-made kind always seems to taste of vinegar, this was lovely stuff, creamy and with distinct flavours of caper and dill. Cauliflower, broccoli and stilton soup could have been thicker, but had a pleasing rich flavour with plenty of blue cheese.

Main courses were hearty stuff. The George and Dragon has a lengthy menu, but suet puddings are something of a speciality, with flavours including liver, onion and bacon or chicken and leek.

The Real Ale Drinker had the steak and kidney, while I had the Mediterranean vegetable version. They had hit on the right thickness of pastry to deliver a pudding that was substantial but not overwhelmingly stodgy, and a generous filling.

Inside the George and Dragon, Thurton. Photo: Nick Butcher.
Inside the George and Dragon, Thurton. Photo: Nick Butcher.
Mine had chunky pieces of courgette, pepper and aubergine in a tomato and onion sauce. We liked the touch of wholegrain mustard in the pastry. Both came with chips (though we could have had new potatoes) and cauliflower, carrots, and Brussels sprouts, of which only the cauliflower was on the soggy side.

We were both stuffed to the gills by this point, but felt duty bound to sample the desserts, after a pause to find some space. The George and Dragon impressively makes its own ice-cream, which comes in a good range of flavours, including mango sorbet or chocolate and marshmallow.

Unfortunately our waitress indicated that not all the desserts are similarly home-made.

A sticky toffee pudding came with the (very thick) custard in a separate jug, which was a nice touch. It was light and almost heart-stoppingly sweet, just as sticky toffee pudding should be.

A chocolate brownie sundae ticked all the boxes - warm brownie, apparently home-made, home-made chocolate ice-cream, squirty cream, marshmallows and chocolate-filled wafer straws. It was a chocoholic's dream.

By this point the Real Ale Drinker was so full he could hardly move, and even his final beer went unfinished. This is happens so rarely that it was quite a victory for the George - albeit not quite up there with dragon-slaying.

  • Where is it? The George and Dragon, The Street, Thurton; 01508 48024; www.thegeorgeanddragonpub.co.uk

  • Where is it? Just off the A146 at Thurton, near Loddon.

  • Is there parking? Yes.

    Food at the George and Dragon, Thurton. Photo: Nick Butcher.
    Food at the George and Dragon, Thurton. Photo: Nick Butcher.
  • When is it open? All day every day, food served lunchtimes and evenings.

  • Do I need to book? Not usually in the week, but for large groups or at busy times ring 01508 480242.

  • Are there vegetarian options? Yes, no less than nine main courses including unusual dishes like a sweet potato, parsnip and chestnut puree bake.
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